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Not much is available in English about Kandalaksha. The Wikitravel article is downright pathetic.  Wikipedia does not offer much either.  This site’s admin feels it’s somehow less than totally appropriate to point to his own project but it appears that his new Kandalaksha and Area is by far the most comprehensive resource accessible to English speakers so please proceed to my kandalaksha.su for the sort of info an independent, active, and budget-minded traveller is likely to need.